Upgrading to an electric tongue jack is one of those changes you notice every single trip. It does not completely transform the trailer, but it takes one of the more annoying manual jobs and turns it into a simple push-button process. When you are hitching up, unhitching, or making small height adjustments at camp, that convenience adds up fast.
For a smaller trailer like the Coleman Lantern 17B or 17R, an electric jack makes a lot of sense. These are lightweight, simple trailers, and the best upgrades are usually the ones that make setup easier without overcomplicating the camper. The current official specs list the 17B with a published hitch weight of 398 lb and the 17R at 368 lb, so you do not need to chase huge jack capacities unless you simply want more overhead than necessary. A standard 3,500 lb A-frame electric jack is already a very comfortable fit for trailers in this class.
If you are already working through the most useful upgrades for your trailer, this page also fits naturally with Must-Have Coleman 17B / 17R Upgrades That Actually Improve Camping, Installing a Backup Camera in a Coleman Lantern 17B / 17R, and Keyless Entry for Coleman Lantern 17B / 17R.
What to look for before you buy
Before ordering a new jack, make sure you are shopping for an A-frame trailer jack, not a side-mount or weld-on style. Lippert’s trailer-jack guide notes that A-frame jacks are the common setup on camper trailers, that they drop through the hole in the trailer tongue, and that tube diameter and fit still matter when replacing one.
For the Coleman 17B and 17R, I would focus on a few things first:
A-frame fit
3,500 lb to 4,500 lb capacity
manual crank override
integrated light if possible
weather-resistant housing
good height travel for easier hitching and unhitching
The 3 electric tongue jacks I would look at first
The product links below go to Amazon.
Best overall
Amazon pick:
Lippert Power Tongue Jack 285318 on Amazon
This is the one I would put first for most Coleman 17B and 17R owners. Lippert’s product page lists a 3,500 lb lift capacity, 18 inches of lift, four integrated LED lights, quiet helical-cut gears, 30-amp power draw, and an emergency manual crank override. Amazon’s current listing shows it in stock, sold by Amazon.com, and 200+ bought in the past month.
What I like about this one is that it is simple, proven, and properly sized for a trailer like this. It is not trying to be flashy. It just covers the basics really well.
Best premium option
Amazon pick:
Husky HB4500 Brute Power Jack on Amazon
If you want more lifting headroom and a more heavy-duty feel, this is the premium pick I would look at. Amazon’s current listing shows the Husky HB4500 at 4,500 lb capacity, with a 4.4-star rating from more than 1,500 reviews, and it was listed with Amazon shipping and delivery availability when I checked.
This is more jack than the 17B or 17R really needs, but that does not make it a bad choice. It just makes it the pick for someone who wants a little extra capacity and does not mind spending more for it.
Best value option
Amazon pick:
POLESTAR 3500 lb Electric Trailer Jack on Amazon
If you want to spend less and still get a proper A-frame electric jack that fits the trailer well, this is the value pick I would start with. Amazon’s current listing shows it in stock, sold by FUSA Official and shipped from Amazon, with Add to Cart available, Amazon’s Choice labeling, and 50+ bought in the past month. The listing also describes it as a 3,500 lb electric A-frame jack with a 4.5-inch drop leg, LED light, and manual crank.
For a lighter trailer like the Coleman 17B or 17R, this is the kind of jack that makes a lot of sense if you want the convenience of electric lift without jumping to a higher price tier.
Honorable mention if you want more capacity for the money
Amazon pick:
POLESTAR 5000 lb Electric Trailer Jack on Amazon
I would not put this one ahead of the three above for every owner, but it is worth noting because Amazon currently shows it as Amazon’s Choice with 700+ bought in the past month and Add to Cart availability. If you specifically want more capacity without paying Husky money, this is a good middle-ground option.
Which one I would choose
For most Coleman Lantern 17B and 17R owners, I would start with the Lippert. It is the cleanest overall choice for fit, reputation, and features. If you want a heavier-duty premium option, I would look at the Husky. If price matters most, I would go with the POLESTAR 3500 and call it a day.
How to install an electric jack on a Coleman Lantern 17B / 17R
Camping World’s current power tongue jack installation guide gives a really clean replacement process for A-frame trailers: chock the wheels, support the trailer so the old jack is not holding the full tongue weight, remove the old jack’s three mounting bolts, drop the new jack through the opening, secure it, wire it, and test it before using it under load. Lippert’s replacement guide also notes that A-frame jacks drop through the tongue opening and bolt into place.
Step 1: Set up the trailer safely
Chock the wheels first so the trailer cannot move. Retract the stabilizers. Then support the tongue weight using your tow vehicle on the hitch ball if possible, or another safe support method like jack stands or blocking under the frame. Camping World recommends keeping the trailer at a workable install height, around 18 to 24 inches, with the load off the jack you are removing.
Step 2: Remove the old manual jack
If your current jack has a removable foot with a cotter pin, pull that first. Then use a 9/16-inch socket to remove the three bolts, washers, and lock washers securing the jack to the A-frame. Lift the old jack straight up and out of the opening.
Step 3: Clean the opening
Wipe down the mounting area before installing the new jack. If you find rust under the old flange, clean it up first. Lippert also recommends checking fit before replacing an A-frame jack because the jack tube needs to match the trailer’s opening properly.
Step 4: Drop the new jack into place
Lower the new electric jack through the existing A-frame opening and rotate it so the switch housing and motor head sit where you want them. Before tightening it down fully, make sure the head is positioned in a way that works with your propane cover, battery box, and tailgate clearance.
Step 5: Bolt it down
Secure the new jack using the three mounting bolts, plus the regular and lock washers. Camping World says you can reuse the original hardware if it is still in good shape, but new hardware is better if it came with the jack.
Step 6: Wire the jack
Most hardwired electric jacks connect to the trailer battery. Camping World’s guide says you can wire the jack’s power cable directly to the battery’s positive terminal according to the jack manufacturer’s instructions and that proper circuit protection should be used. If the jack does not have protection built in, the guide recommends an inline fuse holder sized per the manufacturer, typically 30 amps, and specifically says not to place that fuse holder inside the battery box.
Step 7: Test it before loading it
Run the jack up and down before relying on it to lift the trailer. Make sure the switch direction makes sense, the jack moves smoothly, and nothing rubs or binds. This is also the time to confirm your tailgate clears the jack head and that the light, if equipped, works the way you expect.
Step 8: Keep the manual crank in the trailer
No matter which jack you buy, keep the manual override crank somewhere easy to reach. It is one of those things you may never need until the exact day you really need it.
A few practical tips for the Coleman 17B / 17R
A 3,500 lb jack is already plenty for this trailer class. Unless you just want more headroom, there is no real need to overbuy based on the published hitch weights of these two floorplans.
Check tailgate and propane-cover clearance before tightening everything down. Some jacks are bulkier at the head than others.
If you camp or unhitch at night often, built-in LED lights are worth having. Lippert specifically includes integrated lighting on the 285318, and POLESTAR’s 3500 listing also calls out LED lighting.
If you want to keep building out setup-friendly upgrades, this page fits really well beside Installing a Backup Camera in a Coleman Lantern 17B / 17R and Keyless Entry for Coleman Lantern 17B / 17R.
Final thoughts
An electric tongue jack is one of the easiest convenience upgrades you can make on a Coleman Lantern 17B or 17R. It saves time, cuts down on manual cranking, and makes hitching and unhitching feel a lot smoother every trip. For most owners, I would start with the Lippert 285318, look at the Husky if you want a heavier-duty premium option, and use the POLESTAR 3500 if you want the value pick.